It's just 8.30am on registration day at the International Dhamma Hermitage of Wat Suan Mokkh, in Chaiya, Thailand, and I've already cheated the system and myself. Several camping / yoga mats were piled up in the dorm's kit room, so I snaffled one. The mere chance that one of the wafer-thin cushions could lead to a more luxurious snooze on the concrete cell bed brought out my rebellious side. In my opinion a good night's sleep has to be conducive to attaining a higher state of consciousness. I'll still be trying the wooden pillow for size, no fear.
Mat-nabbing wasn't a great start to the strict 10-day Buddhist meditation retreat I'd just signed up for, where the rules of engagement forbid speaking, sunbathing, jogging, hanging around by the dorm of the opposite sex, wearing see-through clothes, smoking, drinking alcohol, taking a bath in your swimsuit and soaking in the hot springs for more than ten minutes. My chores for the duration of the retreat will be laying the candles beside the reflection pool, and learning a regimented approach to everything, including washing my breakfast bowl in a string of wash basins, in strict order of succession.
I wound up at the Hermitage of Wat Suan Mokkh after a thought-provoking stay on the island of Koh Lanta led me to seek out a yoga class or maybe a meditation introduction elsewhere in Thailand. My compass was set for Koh Phanang, where I planned to mix soul-searching with scuba diving and some Full Moon Party decadence.
Danielle (28) from New Orleans was seated on the transfer bus from Koh Lanta and we exchanged the normal information - how long have you stayed on Koh Lanta? Where are you headed now? A hazy plan for Koh Phanang from me, but a Buddhist meditation retreat for her. And the seed was sown.
|Female living quarters Hermitage Wat Suan Mokkh, Thailand|
My next move in Thailand was a fated one, but I let the idea of the retreat settle inside for the next two hours as we took the car ferry back to the mainland and I nodded off en route to Surat Thani. As our bus pulled up I asked Annette if the retreat was pre-booked or drop in. Just drop in. Registration was tomorrow and anyone interested could spend the night for free at Wat Suan Mokkh temple across the road from the retreat centre.
|Meditation hall, at Hermitage Wat Suan Mokkh, Thailand|
Was there yoga?, I asked. For sure the reply. It costs 2,000 baht including two meals a day.
Koh Phanang was put on hold for another time and I headed off with Danielle and Annette towards days of silence in an unknown setting. When the retreat comes to an end, or I break loose in the meantime, I'll explain all.
Right now the schedule dictates that I eat at 12.30 and await a greeting from the abbot at 4pm sat in my chosen space in the sandy meditation hall.
19.15 BEGINNING OF THE SILENCE
21.30 LIGHTS OUT
wish me luck.
And here is the rest of it.